Evening Cardigans

As the days get shorter and the weather gets crisper, layering with cardigans is a fun way to switch up your wardrobe.  My favorites are cashmere evening cardigans but it is so difficult to find current cashmere of a great quality that won't pill and constructed to last.

I recently added this vintage 1950s hand embroidered Dalton cashmere evening cardigan to my personal vintage collection:

The photos do not even do justice to the beautiful hummingbird embroidery in rich purples, blues, and oranges.

The evening sweater was a must-have for the fashionable mid-century woman.  It is also quite common to see evening cardigans lined in either a corresponding color fabric or like the one above, silk.  If decorative beading or embroidery is too much for you, the more conservative daywear twinset was also very prevalent.  Twinsets consist of a sleeveless shell and matching cardigan.  Sleeve length on 1950s cardigans tends to be 3/4 or bracelet length and the length frequently hit just to the natural waist.  These evening sweaters can pair fabulously with pants or brighten up a solid dress.

Interested in adding one to your wardrobe?  Not sure what to look for to get the perfect Liz Taylor look?

The major vintage labels for cardigans are Dalton and Hadley.  Several Scottish labels were also common as such Pringle.  Helen Bond Carruthers label is one of the most coveted for their elaborately decorated sweaters.

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1950s Pringle Cashmere

Feel the cashmere, make sure it is of a decent weight.  A sweater made to last of a fine quality cashmere will be heavy and without pilling.

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A Helen Bond Carruthers beauty!

The number one enemy of all wool sweaters are moths.  Look over the sweater carefully to make sure it is free of moth holes.  Small ones in inconspicuous areas can be mended but larger or many holes would require an expensive professional reweaving of the fiber.  Sometimes you don't see the holes when you purchase a vintage item and discover the moth holes after the fact.  It happens, just take it immediately to the cleaners.  If the sweater is beaded or so antique that chemical dry cleaning could damage it further, put the sweater in a plastic bag and place it in your freezer for 48-72 hours.  The shock of warm to cold to warm will kill any remaining moth eggs.  

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A modern take by Alexander McQueen

Find It: The bad news is vintage cashmere is highly collectible and a piece in great condition could cost you through a curated vintage collector or shop.  The good news is these sweaters were so prevalent that you can find one in less than perfect condition to mend at a reasonable cost.  Or, scour estate sales and Goodwill for a random pop-up treasure!

Buy It: Evening cardigans are starting to come back.  Check designer collections for pieces like the McQueen sweater posted above.  Vintage-inspired stores like Anthropologie are also a great place to start for finds like this one.

Pro Tip: Check for stains.  Sadly, 60 year old stains are so set in that it is more likely the garment will be damaged in the attempt to clean it before the stain would lift.

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Vintage-inspired modern cardis

Happy Hunting!

-vV

Happy Birthday, Three-Piece Suit!

Well dressed men (and women embracing the menswear trend) light a candle and sing happy birthday because the three-piece suit turns 347 years old today!

King Charles II issued a declaration on October 7, 1666 that his court was to wear what was known as a vest, based on Persian styles. The waistcoat put an emphasis on fabrication and cut, rather than the busy visual attention ruffles and elaborated detailing which dominated the most popular European fashion at the time.  Prior to the Restoration, Charles had spent his exile in France spending much time in the court of Louis XIV in Versailles.  When the monarchy was restored and Charles welcomed back to the throne, he knew he and his courtiers could not come back to an England that had suffered through war, plague, and dictatorship with the flashy and foppish fashions dominating The Sun King's court.

In addition to restoring England, we have Charles II to thank for what eventually morphed into the modern day suit.  The Victorians deserve credit for shortening and shaping the waistcoat and for trading the fussy pantaloons for what is close to our modern day trousers.

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Albeit the standard for hundreds of years, post World War II took the three-piece suit out of American fashion.  While scary concepts like recession and business casual offices continue to threaten its existence, happily the three-piece suit is making a come back!  Countless well-dressed celebrities are photographed in them and modern choices abound, such as the ones below:

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And ladies, it's time to take part as well!  Erase the thought of the hideous 90s power suit and embrace the continuing menswear trend.

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And the three-piece suit can go feminine:

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While plentiful vintage choices do exist, sizing could be an issue.  Taller or larger men will find a challenge for sleeve and pant legs in a proper fit.  Specialty vintage shops can assist you but the cost can be high.  Otherwise, if you opt for a new suit, select made to measure or a brand that is vintage inspired, such as Paul Stuart.  Opt for vintage fabric classics like tweeds or chalk stripes.

All fabulous and vintage inspired new suits

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Ladies may have more luck - small sized suits will stick around thrift and vintage shops.  Wearing it all together can feel costumey, but as long as you own the look, it would fit the right occasion.

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Or, take a jacket and vest that fit you and discard the pants.  Wear them with denim or leggings for a look that could go edgy or relaxed, depending on the suit fabric.

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Happy Birthday, Three-Piece Suit and Happy Hunting for the perfect one to you!

-vV

Pro Tip: Vodka to Clean Vintage

The least glam part of fashion is the maintenance.  But sometimes amazing vintage finds come from a store of questionable cleanliness or have a musty odor attached.  Washing can work for young vintage but it is still a gamble because clothes fade and take a beating with each wash.  Dry cleaning can damage delicate fabrics and can cost a fortune if you have multiple pieces in this condition.  Not to mention the heavy solvent chemical used that can irritate skin and that are not very eco-friendly or part of a green lifestyle.  Beaded, sequined, and antique fabrics should NEVER  be dry cleaned, only be spot-cleaned.   So what do you do?

Seriously.  On set, sometimes we work with one of a kind vintage pieces.  In the theatre, we're always working with rental costumes with not enough time to take to the cleaners even if there was no risk of lost or destruction.  So we use vodka.  Here's how:

Spritz Method:

If your garment has an odor to it such as general body odor, must, or just an overall stale clothes, this method is best.  Similar to how Febreze works, a vodka/water solution will neutralize the smell, but without the harsh fake fragrance.

•  Start by getting a small spritzer.  I usually use generic spritzers from the dollar store.       However if you have children in your home, the small clear ones are great because you can label them, just in case.
• Fill the the spritzer half with water and half with vodka.
• Some people recommend only 100 proof vodka, but I've found any will do.  Even the cheap stuff!  Avoided flavored vodkas because they are not pure and also have a flavor odor.
• Start with a test area and lightly spritz.  Allow the test area to dry to make sure no discoloration or disintegration occurs.
• Spritz the garment liberally, particularly where the odor exists.  
• Hang outside (in the shade) or in a well-ventilated area.  Vodka is odorless but any trace of the solvent will disappear after dry.

Steamer Method:

For more of a cleaning and disinfection, I prefer to put the 50/50 solution right into my steamer.

• Only use this method if you have a steamer with a removable tank.  It is too difficult to remove excess or determine how much you need with the one-piece metal tank steamers such as Jiffy J-4000.
• Fill the removable in the same manner of the spritzer, 50/50 water and vodka.  Fill only want you think you will need, a 1/4 or 1/2 full, unless you have many garments to steam.
• Start with a test area and lightly steam it.  Let a few minutes pass to make sure no discoloration or disintegration of the fabric occurs.
• Steam the entire garment, spending extra time on stains and the underarm areas.

Happy Cleaning!

-vV

All about Gloves

Gloves are a favorite of mine to search for and collect.  Leather and cotton fashion gloves are the height of glamour and a very unexpected accessory today.  Wearing a pair always makes you stand out from the crowd, unless you're headed to the debutante ball with these ladies:

A place to start is deciding whether you are after short or long gloves.  Gloves are steeped in tradition and etiquette, with the basic takeaway being the longer the glove, the more formal the occasion with shorties worn primarily during the day.

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Mid-century glove icons!

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But, the joy of vintage is mixing old pieces into current style and modern life.  I love the look of opera length kid gloves in bright hues paired with the current cape trend for fall.  It's the perfect pulled together casual look.

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Neutrals are beyond chic.  Princess Charlene of Monaco in her nude cape coat and nude leather gloves looks effortlessly glam.

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For a truer vintage vintage aesthetic, a blond fur stole or vest mixed with turquoise 1950s knit opera gloves is warm and fabulous.  Pair it with jeans and a cute top for a night out or the classic look of a stole over a dress, with a twist.  But be kind - opt for a fantastic faux or purchase secondhand fur.  Vintage shops are full of both!

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Short gloves are more of a challenge to style and not look costume-y.  Basic white are the classic and easiest to find, both in cotton and leather.  White still works beautifully for bridal.  However, opting for colored short gloves brings a vintage look into modern fashion.  Instead of searching for mid-century gloves, be on the look out for different fabrics/textures from the 1920s-1940s.

This neutral pair of 1930s textured gloves adds to the soft, romantic, Gatsby-esque look without appearing as though she's on her way to a theme party.

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Always a trendsetter, Blake goes for a monochromatic look on the runway with modern black leather gloves.

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Large scale polka dot dresses in a modern cut have a 1940s feel.  Paired with the short black leather gloves, it turns a classically sweet look edgy.

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Find It: I find a higher quantity and at better prices in suburban shops.  Junior League Thrift Shops are ground zero and from there scour local thrifts.  Short gloves in silk/satin or cotton are easily found in all markets. For leather gloves and dressier long styles, head to consignment and charity shops in the fancier parts of town where the women who would have worn them live(d).

Buy It: LaCrasia Gloves in New York's Garment District is mecca for the glove lover.  Not only are all of their gloves hand-made in house, but they will custom cut gloves to your hand measurements. A trip there is a one of a kind experience by the glove maker to 4 first ladies (including Jacqueline Kennedy and Michelle Obama) as well as celebrities such as Lady Gaga.  The best part - the custom kid skin opera gloves cost less than the "off the rack" styles being sold at Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf's this season.

Pro Tip: Know your glove size before you go shopping for vintage or modern gloves.  Need to measure?  A great guide can be found here.  Also, remember, when worn gloves are an integral part of the outfit.  They're not to be taken off unless you're seated at a table on which food will be served.

-vV

I am swooning over my most recent vintage find. A champagne colored 1960s dupioni silk (raw silk) and lace top dress.

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Champagne is such a gorgeous color that looks fabulous on all skintones. Warmer than white, it is a great way to transition the crisp, fresh look of a white dress into fall.  A dress like this can be accessorized to become dressy or subdued for professional wear.  Since I don't work in a traditional office, I based my inspiration on daywear to a night transition.

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A pop of red with vintage-inspired shoe shape and a delicate clutch keeps the look from being boring and too dated.  Soft, romantic accessories allow the dress to speak for itself.  And cat-eye sunglasses for a pop of glamour!

Find it: 1960s silk shifts and a-line day dresses were quite common.  Start your search on Etsy or eBay to discover styles you like.  Then take the hunt to local vintage boutiques and even goodwill to find the best prices and fits for your shape.  A slim belt takes the burden of alteration off of a boxy shift.

Buy it New: The dress linked above is a new style available for a mere $27.  A dressier option with gold accents can be found here: Lilly Pulitzer Fulton Dress

-vV

For The Love of Old

The search for the right vintage garment or furnishing is a treasure hunt that one either loves or loathes. 

I never think twice about spending an entire week searching for just the right belt or days comparing half a dozen almost identical fabrics for just the right look.  However, after speaking to friends and clients it appears that there are many who love the unique or vintage but don't often have the time or even know where to begin shopping.  Some simply need some suggestions how to style or live with once the right item is found.  I hope for this blog to provide inspiration in the quest and solutions for living with your treasures.  I am firm believer that old must be mixed with new or one risks looking like a costumed character or as though your house is a museum.  Both are major fails but can be easily avoided with a few pointers.

Welcome along for the ride!

-vV